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We use MSM – what is it?

Methylsulfonylmethane (msm) in creams and cosmetics

Everything You Need to Know About MSM in Your Skincare

If you’ve ever looked at the ingredient list on your favorite cream and seen the word “Methylsulfonylmethane,” you might have wondered what it is and why it’s there. Often shortened to MSM, this ingredient is gaining significant attention in the world of skincare. As a key active in our ingredient philosophy, we believe in full transparency about what it is and the benefits it offers your skin.

What is Methylsulfonylmethane (MSM)?

Methylsulfonylmethane (MSM) is an organic, sulfur containing compound. In nature, it’s found in small amounts in some fruits, vegetables, and grains. For commercial use in supplements and cosmetics, it’s produced in a lab to ensure purity and stability.

Think of MSM as a source of biologically active sulfur. Sulfur is the third most abundant mineral in the human body and is a crucial building block for healthy bones, joints, and, most importantly for us, skin. It’s often called “nature’s beauty mineral” because it’s essential for maintaining youthful, healthy skin.

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The Good: 4 Key Benefits of MSM for Your Skin

When applied topically in a cream or lotion, MSM can deliver a range of impressive benefits. It acts as a delivery enhancer, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory agent.

1. It Calms Inflammation and Redness

One of the most celebrated benefits of MSM is its potent anti-inflammatory property. It works by inhibiting signaling pathways in the body that trigger inflammatory responses. For the skin, this means it can help:

  • Soothe redness associated with conditions like rosacea.
  • Calm irritated or sensitive skin.
  • Reduce puffiness and swelling.

A 2017 study found that MSM effectively suppressed the expression of inflammatory cytokines, which are key molecules in promoting inflammation.

Source:

2. It Can Help Improve Skin Firmness and Reduce Fine Lines

MSM is a sulfur donor, and sulfur is essential for the production of collagen and keratin—the primary structural proteins that give skin its strength, elasticity. These proteins are built from the Amino Acids in your skin. By providing the sulfur needed for collagen synthesis, topical MSM can help:

  • Support the skin’s structural integrity.
  • Improve skin firmness and elasticity.
  • Visibly soften the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Source:

  • Natural Medicine Journal: Effects of MSM on Skin Health – This study discusses how MSM’s role as a sulfur donor is key to its ability to improve skin firmness and reduce wrinkles.

3. It Boosts the Effectiveness of Other Ingredients

MSM has the unique ability to enhance the permeability of the skin. This means it can help other active ingredients in a formula—like Vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, or botanical extracts—penetrate more deeply and effectively into the skin. This makes your entire skincare product work better. It acts as a delivery agent, ensuring the good stuff gets where it needs to go.

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4. It Strengthens the Skin Barrier

A healthy skin barrier is crucial for locking in moisture and keeping out irritants and pollutants. The sulfur from MSM plays a role in strengthening the bonds between skin cells, helping to fortify this protective barrier. This leads to more hydrated, resilient, and healthy-looking skin.

The Bad: Are There Any Downsides?

One of the most appealing aspects of MSM is its exceptionally high safety profile. For the vast majority of people, there is no “bad” when it comes to using MSM topically.

  • Extremely Low Risk of Irritation: MSM is generally very well-tolerated, even by those with sensitive skin. It is considered a non-irritating and non-sensitizing ingredient. Allergic reactions are exceptionally rare.
  • GRAS Status: The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has designated MSM as “Generally Recognized As Safe” (GRAS) for use in food and supplements. This designation speaks to its very high level of safety and lack of toxicity.

The only potential “bad” would be if an individual has a specific, rare allergy to sulfur-based compounds. As with any new cosmetic product, performing a patch test on a small area of skin is always a good practice if you have highly reactive skin.

Source:

The Verdict

Methylsulfonylmethane (MSM) is a powerhouse ingredient backed by solid science. Its ability to calm inflammation, support collagen production, and enhance the delivery of other ingredients makes it a valuable addition to any cosmetic cream.

With an outstanding safety profile and a list of proven benefits, MSM is truly an all-star player in achieving healthy, resilient, and youthful-looking skin. It’s an ingredient we are proud to use, and now you know why it’s working so hard for your skin.

Frequently Asked Questions about MSM

What does MSM do for your face?

MSM has several benefits for the face. It’s a potent anti-inflammatory that can calm redness and sensitivity. It also acts as a sulfur donor to support the production of collagen, which helps to improve skin firmness and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

How does MSM help with wrinkles?

MSM provides sulfur, which is an essential building block for collagen. By supporting the skin’s natural collagen production, it helps maintain the skin’s structural integrity, leading to improved firmness and a reduction in the look of wrinkles over time.

Is MSM safe to use on skin?

Yes, MSM is considered exceptionally safe for topical use. It has been designated as “Generally Recognized As Safe” (GRAS) by the FDA for consumption, and studies show it has a very low risk of causing skin irritation or allergic reactions.

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Parabens – What are they?

parabens in creams and cosmetics

All Sol14 skincare products are paraben free. But what does this really mean?

Quick article summary

ProsCons/Concerns
+ Very effective at preventing bacteria and mold– Can weakly mimic the hormone estrogen
+ Have a long history of safe use in millions of products– Were found in breast cancer tissue, but no causal link was ever proven
+ Low rate of causing skin allergies compared to some alternatives– Some specific types are restricted in the EU as a precaution

What are Parabens?

In simple terms, parabens are preservatives. They are a family of chemicals that are used to prevent the growth of harmful bacteria, mold, and yeast in products. This keeps products safe to use and gives them a longer shelf life. Think of them like the preservatives in food that stop it from spoiling quickly on the shelf. The most common types you might see on an ingredient list are:

  • Methylparaben
  • Propylparaben
  • Butylparaben
  • Ethylparaben

Why Are They Used in Skin Creams and Cosmetics?

Your bathroom is often a warm and humid environment, which is the perfect breeding ground for microbes. Every time you dip your fingers into a jar of face cream or use a lotion, you can introduce bacteria. And so, parabens are used for two primary reasons:

  • Product Safety: They kill those microbes/microorganisms that could contaminate your cosmetics. A contaminated product could cause skin infections, rashes, or other health issues.
  • Product Stability: They ensure the product remains unchanged and effective from the day that you buy it until it’s finished. Without a preservative, a cream could go bad in just a few days or weeks.

Because of this, parabens have been used in numerous products since the 1920s for their effectiveness and because they are generally inexpensive.

So what’s the concern then?

The concern around parabens began to grow after a 2004 UK study found traces of parabens in breast cancer tumors. This led to questions about a possible link between parabens and cancer.

The main scientific concern is that parabens have been shown to weakly mimic the hormone estrogen in the human body. High estrogen levels are known to be a factor in the development of some types of breast cancer. This property is known as “endocrine disruption.”

Please note these two key points:

  • The 2004 UK study did not prove that parabens caused the cancer. The fact is, the study only showed that they were present in the tissue. Key point – no definitive correlation.
  • The estrogen-mimicking effect of parabens is considered to be extremely weak. Natural estrogen produced by your own body and estrogen-like chemicals from plants (like soy) are many thousands of times stronger. Key point – your body produced estrogen is 1000s of times stronger.

What about data from scientists and regulators?

Here are a few conclusions from experts who review the safety of cosmetic ingredients:

  • US Food and Drug Administration: The FDA continues to review the data on parabens. Their current official position is that there is not enough scientific evidence to show that parabens, at the low levels used in cosmetics, are harmful to human health. They state, “At this time, we do not have information showing that parabens as they are used in cosmetics have an effect on human health.”
  • Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR): The CIR is an independent panel of scientific and medical experts that assesses the safety of cosmetic ingredients in the United States. They have reviewed parabens multiple times and have consistently concluded that they are safe to use in cosmetics at the current established levels.
  • The European Commission’s Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS): The European Union has some of the strictest cosmetic regulations in the world. They have concluded that the most common parabens (methylparaben and ethylparaben) are safe at the maximum allowed concentrations. They have, however, restricted the concentration limits for propylparaben and butylparaben and have banned a few less common types of parabens altogether as a precaution.

What’s Sol14’s stance on parabens?

Even though there are numerous benefits to using parabens in products, Sol14 has opted not to use parabens in any of their products. Why? We want to ensure that all of our products contain the least amount of ingredients and still be the most effective across all skin types. We have also opted to use alternative, more natural ingredients to preserve our products.

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The Protective Spice, Fennel Fruit Extract

Foeniculum Vulgare (Fennel) Fruit Extract in skincare

Why do we use Foeniculum Vulgare (Fennel) Fruit Extract?

For thousands of years, the sweet, licorice-like aroma of fennel has graced kitchens and traditional apothecaries. Foeniculum Vulgare, or Fennel, has been used as a culinary spice and a medicinal herb to treat a wide range of ailments. In modern skincare, as part of our ingredient philosophy, the extract from its fruit (the seed) is valued for its powerful protective and purifying properties

What is Foeniculum Vulgare (Fennel) Fruit Extract?

Fennel Fruit Extract is a concentrated preparation derived from the dried fruits (seeds) of the fennel plant. These seeds are incredibly rich in bioactive compounds that are beneficial for the skin.

The primary active constituents include:

  • Phenolic Compounds: It is packed with flavonoids and phenolic acids, which are potent antioxidants.
  • Volatile Compounds: Its distinct aroma comes from compounds like anethole, which also contributes to its antimicrobial properties.

These molecules are what give fennel its ability to protect and purify the skin.

The Good: 3 Key Benefits of Fennel Fruit Extract in Creams

When formulated into a cosmetic cream, Fennel Fruit Extract acts as a potent antioxidant and a gentle soothing agent.

1. It Provides Robust Antioxidant Protection

This is Fennel’s greatest strength. The rich concentration of flavonoids and other phenols makes it a powerhouse at neutralizing damaging free radicals, similar to other potent botanicals like Green Tea Extract. These unstable molecules, generated by UV rays and pollution, cause oxidative stress that leads to premature aging. Fennel extract helps to:

  • Defend the skin from daily environmental stressors.
  • Protect skin cells from the damage that leads to fine lines and wrinkles.
  • Maintain the skin’s overall health and vitality.

2. It Has Soothing and Anti-Inflammatory Properties

Traditional medicine has long used fennel to calm inflammation. Modern research confirms that the extract has anti-inflammatory effects, which can help to soothe the skin, calm redness, and reduce signs of irritation.

3. It Offers Natural Antimicrobial Action

The compounds in fennel, particularly anethole, have been shown to have antimicrobial and antibacterial properties. In a skincare formula, this can help to purify the skin’s surface and create a less hospitable environment for the bacteria that can contribute to breakouts.

The Bad: Are There Any Considerations?

The very thing that gives fennel its beautiful aroma is also the source of its main consideration.

  • Contains Natural Fragrance Compounds: Fennel extract is rich in volatile aromatic compounds, such as anethole and limonene. While natural, these components are also known potential sensitizers or allergens. Individuals with very sensitive skin, a history of fragrance allergies, or conditions like rosacea might find ingredients containing these compounds to be irritating. This is the most important consideration for this ingredient.
  • More of a Supportive Player: While a fantastic antioxidant and soothing agent, Fennel extract is not typically considered a primary “treatment” ingredient for major concerns like deep wrinkles or significant hyperpigmentation. It works best as a protective and balancing part of a well-rounded formula.

The Verdict

Foeniculum Vulgare (Fennel) Fruit Extract is a potent botanical protector. Its exceptional antioxidant capacity makes it a valuable tool for defending the skin against the environmental factors that cause aging. While its natural fragrance compounds mean it may not be suitable for the most sensitive or allergy-prone individuals, it is an excellent ingredient for providing daily antioxidant support and a touch of purifying, soothing care.

Source for all claims in this article:

Frequently Asked Questions about Fennel Extract

What does fennel extract do for the skin?

Fennel extract is a powerful antioxidant that helps protect the skin from environmental damage and premature aging. It also has natural anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, which can help to soothe redness and purify the skin.

Is fennel extract good for acne?

It can be beneficial. Fennel extract’s natural antimicrobial properties can help reduce the bacteria on the skin’s surface that contribute to breakouts. Its anti-inflammatory action can also help to calm the redness associated with acne.

Is fennel extract safe for sensitive skin?

It depends on the individual’s sensitivity. Fennel extract contains natural aromatic compounds (like anethole) that give it a scent. While many people tolerate it well, those with known fragrance allergies or extremely sensitive skin should perform a patch test first.

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The Natural Protector, Usnea Lichen Extract

Usnea Barbata (Lichen) Extract in skincare

Why do we use Usnea Barbata (Lichen) Extract?

Found hanging from the branches of trees in pristine forests, Usnea Barbata, commonly known as Old Man’s Beard, is not a plant but a lichen—a complex life form that is a symbiotic partnership between algae and fungi. This unique organism has been used in traditional medicine for centuries as a powerful antimicrobial agent. In modern skincare, as explained in our ingredient glossary, it serves as an effective natural preservative with added skin-soothing benefits.

What is Usnea Barbata (Lichen) Extract?

Usnea Barbata extract is a preparation derived from the lichen. Its power comes from its main active compound, Usnic Acid.

Usnic acid is a potent, multi-functional molecule that gives the lichen its defining characteristics. It is highly effective against a wide range of microorganisms and also possesses anti-inflammatory properties. In skincare, it is this Usnic Acid that is leveraged to protect both the product and the skin.

The Good: The Benefits of Usnea Extract in Creams

When formulated into a cosmetic cream, Usnea Extract acts primarily as a functional ingredient, protecting the formula while offering purifying benefits to the skin.

1. It’s a Potent Natural Preservative and Purifier

This is Usnea’s number one role. Usnic acid is a powerful antimicrobial and antibacterial agent.

  • For the Product: It helps to protect the cosmetic cream from contamination by bacteria, yeast, and mold, acting as an effective natural preservative. This is a great alternative to synthetic preservatives.
  • For the Skin: These same properties can help to purify the skin. It is effective against bacteria associated with skin issues, such as Cutibacterium acnes (related to acne) and bacteria that can cause body odor.

2. It Has Soothing Anti-Inflammatory Properties

Beyond its antimicrobial action, Usnic acid has been shown to have significant anti-inflammatory effects. This means it can help to soothe the skin and calm irritation, making it a beneficial supporting ingredient for inflammatory conditions like acne, working well alongside other soothers like Cica.

3. It Provides Antioxidant Protection

Usnic acid also functions as an antioxidant, helping to neutralize damaging free radicals generated by environmental stressors. This adds a layer of protection against the visible signs of premature aging.

The Bad: Are There Any Considerations?

While effective, Usnea is a potent ingredient with some important considerations that are crucial for transparency.

  • It is a Known Contact Allergen: This is the most significant consideration. Usnic acid is a well-documented, though not extremely common, contact allergen. For a small percentage of people, repeated exposure can lead to a skin allergy (contact dermatitis), which can appear as a red, itchy rash. This is the most important reason why patch-testing a new product is always recommended.
  • Primarily a Functional Ingredient: While Usnea has skin-soothing benefits, its primary purpose in a formula is often functional—to act as a preservative. It is not a “nourishing” or “moisturizing” ingredient in the way a botanical oil or butter is.
  • Sustainability Concerns: Usnea is a very slow-growing organism. Wild harvesting can easily become unsustainable and damage forest ecosystems. It is crucial that brands source their Usnea extract from suppliers who use responsible, sustainable harvesting practices or utilize lab-grown sources.

The Verdict

Usnea Barbata (Lichen) Extract is a powerful and effective natural ingredient that serves a dual purpose. It acts as an excellent natural preservative to keep the product pure, while also offering purifying and soothing benefits to the skin. While its potential as an allergen means it’s not for everyone, its inclusion in a formula signals a commitment to using effective, nature-derived functional ingredients.

Source for all claims in this article:

  • National Institutes of Health (PubMed Central): Cosmetic and Dermatological Properties of Usnic Acid: A Review – This comprehensive scientific review in the journal Molecules details the antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties of Usnic Acid, as well as its well-documented potential as a contact allergen.

Frequently Asked Questions about Usnea Extract

What is Usnea extract used for in skincare?

Usnea extract is primarily used as a natural preservative due to its powerful antimicrobial properties, which protect the product from contamination. It also offers skin benefits, including purifying action against acne-causing bacteria and soothing anti-inflammatory effects.

Is Usnea a good natural preservative?

Yes, it is a very effective natural preservative. Its main active compound, Usnic Acid, is effective against a broad range of bacteria, fungi, and yeast, making it a popular choice in “clean beauty” formulations as an alternative to synthetic preservatives.

Is Usnea safe for sensitive skin?

It depends on the individual. While it has soothing properties, the active compound Usnic Acid is also a known contact allergen for a small percentage of people. If you have very sensitive skin or a history of skin allergies, it is essential to patch-test any product containing Usnea extract.

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The Gentle Purifier, Yucca Root Extract

Yucca Glauca Root Extract in skincare

Why do we use Yucca Glauca Root Extract?

Long before the invention of modern soap, the indigenous peoples of North America turned to a resilient desert plant for cleansing: the Yucca Glauca, or Soapweed Yucca. This traditional wisdom is now embraced by modern skincare for the plant’s unique purifying and soothing properties. As a unique botanical in our ingredient glossary, it brings a touch of gentle, historical efficacy to our formulas.

What is Yucca Glauca Root Extract?

Yucca Glauca Root Extract is a preparation derived from the root of the soapweed yucca plant, which is native to the grasslands and deserts of North America. Its benefits are rooted in its rich concentration of powerful phytochemicals.

Its primary active constituents include:

  • Saponins: These are natural, soap-like compounds that have a gentle cleansing effect. This is what gives the plant its “soapy” reputation.
  • Phenolic Compounds & Resveratrol: Yucca is a rich source of these potent antioxidants, which are excellent at protecting the skin from environmental damage.

Source:

  • U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA): Yucca glauca Plant Guide – This official guide from the USDA documents that “The roots of soapweed yucca were used by Native Americans as a source of soap and as a poultice for sores,” confirming its traditional cleansing and anti-inflammatory uses.

The Good: 3 Key Benefits of Yucca Root Extract in Creams

When formulated into a cosmetic cream, Yucca Root Extract acts as a gentle purifying, soothing, and protective agent.

1. It Has a Gentle Purifying Action

The natural saponins in yucca provide a very mild cleansing action. While you won’t feel it “lather” in a cream, these compounds help to purify the skin’s surface without stripping it of its essential natural oils. This contributes to a feeling of clean, refreshed, and balanced skin.

2. It’s a Potent Soothing Agent

Yucca has a long and respected history in herbal medicine for its anti-inflammatory properties. It was traditionally used to treat skin sores, sprains, and other inflammatory conditions. The phenolic compounds in the extract help to soothe redness and comfort stressed or reactive skin, similar to other powerful soothers like Cica. Additionally it helps to:

  • Soothe Redness: It can help calm the appearance of red, irritated skin.
  • Comfort Stressed Skin: Its gentle, calming nature makes it a great choice for skin that is feeling stressed or reactive.

3. It Provides Powerful Antioxidant Protection

Yucca is a surprisingly rich source of antioxidants like resveratrol and other phenols. These molecules are masters at neutralizing damaging free radicals generated by UV exposure and pollution. This protective action is a key benefit for preventing premature aging, working alongside other antioxidants like Grape Seed Oil.

Source:

  • National Institutes of Health (PubMed Central): Bioactive Phenolic Compounds from Yucca L. Genus: A Review – This scientific review in the journal Molecules details the significant antioxidant activity of the phenolic compounds found throughout the Yucca genus, highlighting their potential in health and cosmetic applications.

The Bad: Are There Any Considerations?

Yucca Root Extract is overwhelmingly safe and well-tolerated. The considerations are less about risk and more about the state of modern research.

  • Less Studied Specifically for Creams: While Yucca’s benefits are well-supported by traditional use and studies on its individual compounds (like resveratrol), there are fewer large-scale human clinical trials on Yucca glauca extract specifically for its anti-aging or moisturizing effects in a leave-on cream. Its benefits in a cream are primarily derived from its soothing and antioxidant properties.
  • Potential for Irritation (Rare): As with any potent botanical, there is a very small chance of an allergic reaction or skin irritation in highly sensitive individuals, though it is known for being very gentle.

The Verdict

Yucca Glauca Root Extract is a unique ingredient that brings the wisdom of traditional medicine into modern skincare. Its power lies in its combination of gentle purifying, potent soothing, and robust antioxidant properties. While it may be a less common ingredient, it’s an exceptional choice for promoting a clear, calm, and resilient complexion.

Frequently Asked Questions about Yucca Root

What does Yucca Root do for skin?

Yucca Root Extract has three main benefits for skin: it gently purifies due to natural saponins, it soothes redness and irritation with its anti-inflammatory properties, and it protects the skin from environmental damage with powerful antioxidants like resveratrol.

Is Yucca a natural cleanser?

Yes. The root of the Yucca glauca plant is so rich in natural, soap-like compounds called saponins that it was historically known as “Soapweed Yucca.” Native Americans would crush the root to create a lather for washing.

Is Yucca extract good for sensitive skin?

Yes, Yucca extract is known for being very gentle. Its potent anti-inflammatory and soothing properties make it an excellent choice for calming sensitive or reactive skin.

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PCA (Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid): A Pillar of Your Skin’s Natural Moisture

PCA (Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid) in skincare

Why do we use PCA (Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid)?

o understand how skin stays naturally hydrated, you have to look at its own built-in moisturizing system. A key part of that system is an ingredient called PCA, or Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid. It’s a fundamental molecule that helps your skin attract and hold onto water, keeping it balanced and healthy. As a fundamental molecule in our ingredient glossary, it helps your skin attract and hold onto water, keeping it balanced and healthy.

What is Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)?

Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA) is a naturally occurring amino acid derivative and a major component of your skin’s Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF). The NMF is a complex group of substances (including amino acids, salts like Sodium PCA, sugars, and urea) that work together in the outermost layer of your skin to keep it hydrated.

PCA is derived from glutamic acid, an amino acid, and acts as a humectant—an ingredient that draws moisture from the air and binds it to the skin cells. Think of it as one of the primary molecules responsible for your skin’s “water-holding” capacity.

PCA vs. Sodium PCA: What’s the Difference?

You will often see both PCA and Sodium PCA in ingredient lists.

  • PCA is the acid form.
  • Sodium PCA is the sodium salt of PCA.

Both are excellent humectants, but the salt form (Sodium PCA) is generally considered to be slightly more effective at binding water. However, the acid form (PCA) also plays a role in helping to maintain the skin’s healthy, slightly acidic pH. They are often used together in a synergistic “dream team” for hydration.

The Good: The Benefits of PCA in Cream

PCA is a foundational ingredient that works in perfect harmony with your skin.

1. It’s a Cornerstone of Natural Hydration

This is PCA’s most important attribute. Because it is a key part of your skin’s own NMF, your skin instantly recognizes and utilizes it. This “skin-identical” nature means it helps to supplement and support your skin’s own hydration processes in the most natural way possible.

2. It’s a Powerful Humectant

PCA excels at attracting and holding onto water. By binding moisture to the stratum corneum (the outermost layer of skin), it helps to:

  • Keep the skin feeling plump, supple, and hydrated.
  • Reduce the appearance of fine lines that are caused by dehydration.
  • Prevent the feeling of tightness associated with dry skin.

3. It Helps Maintain a Healthy Skin pH

As an acid, PCA contributes to the skin’s acid mantle. This is a very thin, slightly acidic film on the surface of the skin that acts as a crucial barrier against bacteria, viruses, and other potential contaminants. Maintaining a healthy acidic pH (typically between 4.5 and 5.5) is vital for a strong, healthy skin barrier.

The Bad: Are There Any Considerations?

PCA is one of the safest, gentlest, and most non-controversial ingredients in all of skincare. It has virtually no “bad” side effects. The considerations are not about risk, but about understanding its role in a formula.

  • It Rarely Works Alone: PCA is a foundational hydrator, but it is a team player. As a humectant, its job is to draw in water. For optimal results, it must be formulated alongside emollients (like oils and butters) and occlusives. The emollients soften the skin, while the occlusives create a seal to lock in the moisture that PCA has attracted.
  • Not a Targeted “Treatment”: PCA is essential for skin health and hydration, but it is not a “treatment” ingredient for concerns like wrinkles or hyperpigmentation. Its job is to provide the fundamental moisture that allows all other skin processes to function correctly.

The Verdict

Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA) is a fundamental building block of hydrated, healthy skin. Its natural presence in our own skin makes it an incredibly safe, effective, and compatible choice for boosting moisture levels. When you see it in our products, you can be confident it’s there to support your skin’s most essential function: staying perfectly hydrated.

Source for all claims in this article:

Frequently Asked Questions about PCA

What is the difference between PCA and Sodium PCA?

PCA is the acid form, while Sodium PCA is its salt. Both are excellent at attracting moisture (humectants), but Sodium PCA is slightly more powerful at binding water. PCA also helps maintain the skin’s healthy, slightly acidic pH.

Is PCA good for oily skin?

Yes, PCA is excellent for oily skin. As a lightweight humectant, it provides essential water-based hydration without adding any oil or grease. This helps to keep oily skin balanced and can prevent it from over-producing oil due to dehydration.

Where does PCA in skincare come from?

The PCA used in cosmetics is typically derived from plant sources like soybeans, molasses, or coconut oil through a fermentation process. It is considered a gentle, nature-derived ingredient.

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The Silky Nourisher, Camellia Seed Oil

Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil in skincare

Why do we use Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil?

For centuries, Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil has been a treasured beauty secret in Eastern cultures, particularly in Japan where it was a favorite of the Geishas. Known for its incredibly lightweight, silky texture and profound moisturizing abilities, this elegant oil nourishes the skin without ever feeling heavy or greasy. As a luxurious emollient in our ingredient glossary, it’s a perfect example of a gentle yet effective botanical.

What is Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil?

Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil, also known as Tea Seed Oil, is a nourishing oil cold-pressed from the seeds of the Camellia tree. It’s important to note this is a different species from Camellia sinensis, the plant that gives us green tea, though they are in the same family.

Its remarkable benefits are due to its rich composition:

  • Oleic Acid (Omega-9): This is the star of the show, making up approximately 80% of the oil’s fatty acid content. Oleic acid is a fantastic emollient, making it exceptional for moisturizing dry, aging skin.
  • Antioxidants: It is naturally rich in Vitamin E (tocopherols) and other polyphenols, which are powerful antioxidants.

This profile makes it a top-tier choice for softening, nourishing, and protecting the skin.

Source:

The Good: 3 Key Benefits of Camellia Seed Oil in Creams

When formulated into a cosmetic cream, Camellia Seed Oil acts as a deeply nourishing, protective, and fast-absorbing emollient.

1. It Deeply Moisturizes and Softens Dry Skin

This is Camellia oil’s greatest strength. The extremely high concentration of oleic acid makes it a superb emollient that mimics the skin’s natural lipids. It helps to:

  • Replenish moisture in dry, dehydrated, or mature skin.
  • Improve skin elasticity and suppleness.
  • Leave the skin feeling exceptionally soft and smooth.

2. It Provides Potent Antioxidant Protection

The rich supply of Vitamin E and other polyphenols makes Camellia oil a powerful antioxidant. It helps to neutralize damaging free radicals generated by environmental stressors like UV rays and pollution. This protective action defends the skin from the primary causes of premature aging.

3. It Has an Elegant, Lightweight Feel

Despite being a rich oil, Camellia oil is famous for its “dry oil” texture. It is remarkably lightweight and absorbs quickly into the skin without leaving a greasy residue, making it a cosmetically elegant and comfortable choice for facial moisturizers.

The Bad: Are There Any Considerations?

The very thing that makes Camellia oil a hero for dry skin—its high oleic acid content—is what makes it a consideration for other skin types.

  • Potential Concern for Acne-Prone Skin: Oils that are very high in oleic acid and lower in linoleic acid can sometimes be problematic for those with oily or acne-prone skin. The natural oil (sebum) of acne-prone individuals is often deficient in linoleic acid. Adding more oleic acid to this environment can, for some people, be disruptive to the skin barrier and contribute to clogged pores. Those with very oily or congested skin often find more success with oils high in linoleic acid, like Safflower or Grape Seed oil.
  • More of a Nourisher Than a “Treatment”: Camellia oil is a fantastic foundational emollient for moisturizing, softening, and protecting. However, it doesn’t contain the targeted “active” compounds found in oils like Rosehip (which its natural retinoids). Its primary role is to provide superior nourishment, not to perform a specific treatment.

Source:

The Verdict

Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil is a luxurious and highly effective emollient, steeped in a rich history of cosmetic use. It is an exceptional choice for those with dry, normal, mature, or sensitive skin who are looking for deep, silky nourishment and antioxidant protection. While it may not be the first choice for very oily skin types, its elegant texture and profound moisturizing capabilities make it a truly treasured skincare ingredient.

Frequently Asked Questions about Camellia Oil

Is Camellia Oil good for your face?

Yes, Camellia Oil is excellent for the face, especially for those with dry, normal, or mature skin. It’s a lightweight, fast-absorbing oil that provides deep moisture and antioxidant protection without feeling greasy.

What is the difference between Camellia Seed Oil and Green Tea?

They come from different, though related, plants. Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil comes from the seeds of the tea oil plant and is a rich moisturizing oil. Green Tea Extract (from the Camellia sinensis plant) comes from the leaves and is a powerful, water-soluble antioxidant.

Does Camellia Oil clog pores?

Camellia Oil has a very low comedogenic rating and is generally considered non-comedogenic. However, because it is very high in oleic acid, people with extremely oily or acne-prone skin may prefer an oil higher in linoleic acid, like Safflower or Grape Seed oil.

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The Skin-Firmer, Horsetail Extract

Horsetail (Equisetum Arvense) Extract in skincare

Why do we use Horsetail (Equisetum Arvense) Extract?

Long before most modern plants existed, Equisetum Arvense, commonly known as Horsetail, thrived across the globe. This ancient plant, often called a “living fossil,” has been used for centuries in traditional medicine for its remarkable healing and strengthening properties. In modern skincare, as detailed in our ingredient glossary, it is prized for its high concentration of a specific mineral vital for firm, resilient skin.

What is Equisetum Arvense (Horsetail) Extract?

Horsetail Extract is a preparation derived from the barren, hollow stems of the Equisetum Arvense plant. Its main claim to fame in the world of health and beauty is its status as one of the plant kingdom’s richest sources of silica, a natural form of silicon.

Silica is a crucial trace mineral required by the body for the production of collagen, the primary protein that gives skin its structure, firmness, and elasticity. The extract also contains a wealth of other beneficial compounds, including flavonoids and phenolic acids, which act as antioxidants.

Source:

  • Mount Sinai Health System: Horsetail – This health library resource from a leading medical institution details Horsetail’s traditional uses, its high silica content, and safety information.

The Good: 4 Key Benefits of Horsetail Extract in Creams

When formulated into a cosmetic cream, Horsetail Extract acts as a firming, toning, and soothing agent.

1. It’s a Rich Source of Skin-Strengthening Silica

This is Horsetail’s number one benefit. The bio-available silica in the extract provides the skin with a key building block for collagen. By supporting the skin’s natural collagen synthesis, which also requires Amino Acids, it helps to:

  • Improve skin firmness and elasticity.
  • Strengthen the skin’s connective tissues.
  • Reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

2. It Has Soothing and Anti-Inflammatory Properties

Horsetail has been used for centuries to help heal wounds and calm irritation. Scientific studies have confirmed that the extract has anti-inflammatory and analgesic (pain-relieving) properties, which help to soothe red, stressed, or sensitive skin.

3. It Provides Potent Antioxidant Protection

The extract is rich in flavonoids and other phenolic compounds that are effective antioxidants. These molecules help to neutralize damaging free radicals generated by environmental stressors like UV rays and pollution, which helps to protect the skin from premature aging.

4. It Offers a Mild Toning Effect

Horsetail has natural astringent properties, which can help to tone the skin and temporarily tighten the appearance of pores, leading to a smoother, more refined complexion, a benefit it shares with ingredients like Geranium Extract.

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The Bad: Are There Any Considerations?

Horsetail is generally considered very safe for topical use, but it’s important to have a clear picture of the current state of research.

  • More Research Needed on Topical Use: While Horsetail has a long history of traditional use and many promising lab studies (in-vitro), there are fewer large-scale human clinical trials specifically on its topical anti-aging effects compared to well-known ingredients like retinoids or Vitamin C. Its benefits are strongly supported by its chemical composition, but more direct clinical evidence would be beneficial.
  • Potential for Irritation (Rare): As with any potent botanical extract, there is a small possibility of an allergic reaction or skin irritation in highly sensitive individuals.

The Verdict

Equisetum Arvense (Horsetail) Extract is a unique, mineral-rich ingredient that offers a different approach to skin health. Its power lies in its high concentration of silica, a fundamental building block for the proteins that keep skin firm and strong. Complemented by its soothing and antioxidant properties, it is an excellent choice for improving skin’s tone, texture, and resilience.

Frequently Asked Questions about Horsetail Extract

What does horsetail extract do for your skin?

Horsetail extract is primarily used to help firm and strengthen the skin. Its high silica content supports the skin’s natural collagen production, which can improve elasticity and reduce the appearance of fine lines. It also has soothing and antioxidant benefits.

How does horsetail help with skin firmness and wrinkles?

The silica in horsetail is a key building block for collagen, the protein that gives skin its structure. By providing this essential mineral, horsetail extract supports the body’s ability to produce the collagen needed to keep skin firm, which can help soften the look of wrinkles over time.

Is horsetail extract safe to use on skin?

Yes, horsetail extract is considered very safe for topical use in cosmetic creams. As with any botanical ingredient, there is a rare chance of an allergic reaction, so a patch test is always a good idea if you have highly sensitive skin.

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The Gentle Nourisher, Apricot Kernel Oil

Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil in skincare

Why do we use Apricot (Prunus Armeniaca) Kernel Oil?

Often compared to its cousin, sweet almond oil, Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil is a gentle, lightweight, and versatile oil prized for its ability to soften and moisturize the skin without a heavy feel. As a classic emollient in our ingredient glossary, it has been valued for generations for its nourishing properties.

What is Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil?

Apricot Kernel Oil is a lightweight oil pressed from the kernels (seeds) of the apricot fruit. Its skincare benefits are largely due to its fatty acid composition, which is very rich in Oleic Acid (an Omega-9 fatty acid).

Its main components include:

  • Oleic Acid (approx. 60-70%): This is what makes the oil so rich and moisturizing, perfect for dry and mature skin.
  • Linoleic Acid (approx. 20-30%): This Omega-6 fatty acid is crucial for a healthy skin barrier.
  • Vitamin E and other phenols: These compounds provide antioxidant benefits.

This profile makes it an exceptional emollient, meaning it works to keep the skin soft, smooth, and supple.

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The Good: The Benefits of Apricot Kernel Oil in Creams

When formulated into a cosmetic cream, Apricot Kernel Oil acts as a softening, moisturizing, and soothing emollient.

1. It’s an Excellent Moisturizer for Dry & Mature Skin

This is Apricot oil’s greatest strength. The high concentration of oleic acid makes it a fantastic emollient that deeply nourishes the skin. It helps to:

  • Replenish lost lipids in the skin.
  • Soften rough, dry patches and improve skin texture.
  • Leave the skin feeling smooth, supple, and comfortable.

2. It Has a Lightweight, Non-Greasy Texture

Despite being rich and nourishing, Apricot Kernel Oil is known for its relatively lightweight texture. It absorbs into the skin with ease and doesn’t leave behind a heavy, greasy residue, making it an elegant and comfortable facial oil.

3. It’s Gentle and Soothing

Apricot Kernel Oil is known for being very gentle, making it a great choice for soothing sensitive or mildly irritated skin. Its emollient properties help to calm dryness and support the skin’s natural barrier.

4. It Provides Antioxidant Benefits

Thanks to its Vitamin E content, Apricot Kernel Oil has antioxidant properties that help protect the skin from environmental damage caused by free radicals. This helps to defend against the signs of premature aging.

The Bad: Are There Any Considerations?

The very thing that makes Apricot oil great for dry skin is what can make it a concern for others. It all comes down to its fatty acid profile.

  • Potential Concern for Acne-Prone Skin: Oils high in oleic acid and lower in linoleic acid can sometimes be problematic for those with oily or acne-prone skin. Healthy skin has a good balance of both fatty acids. However, the sebum of acne-prone individuals is often deficient in linoleic acid. Adding more oleic acid without sufficient linoleic acid can potentially disrupt the barrier and contribute to clogged pores in some people. For this reason, those with acne-prone skin often have better results with oils high in linoleic acid, like Safflower or Grape Seed oil.
  • More of a Nourisher Than a “Treatment”: Apricot Kernel Oil is a fantastic foundational emollient for softening and moisturizing. However, it doesn’t contain the high levels of potent “active” compounds found in oils like Rosehip (with its natural Vitamin A) or Grape Seed (Proanthocyanidins). Its primary role is to nourish, not to perform a targeted treatment.

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The Verdict

Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil is a classic, gentle, and highly effective emollient. It is an exceptional choice for those with dry, mature, or sensitive skin who are looking for softening, nourishing, and soothing moisture. While it may not be the first choice for very oily or acne-prone skin types, its elegant texture and gentle nature make it a beloved foundational ingredient in many cosmetic creams.

Frequently Asked Questions about Apricot Kernel Oil

Is Apricot Kernel Oil good for your face?

Yes, it is excellent for the face, especially for those with dry, mature, or sensitive skin. It’s a lightweight emollient that moisturizes and softens the skin without feeling heavy or greasy.

Will Apricot Kernel Oil clog pores?

Apricot Kernel Oil has a low to moderate comedogenic rating. Because it is high in oleic acid, it is generally better suited for dry skin. People with very oily or acne-prone skin might find oils higher in linoleic acid (like Safflower or Grape Seed Oil) to be a better choice.

What skin type is Apricot Kernel Oil best for?

It is best for dry, mature, and sensitive skin types due to its rich, nourishing, and gentle properties. Normal and combination skin can also benefit, but it may be too rich for very oily skin.

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The Antioxidant Powerhouse, Grape Seed Oil

Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil in Skincare

Why do we use Grape (Vitis Vinifera) Seed Oil?

Born from a byproduct of the wine making process, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil is a perfect example of a sustainable, potent, and highly effective skincare ingredient. As a key antioxidant in our ingredient glossary, this lightweight, fast-absorbing oil is celebrated for its incredible antioxidant content, making it a top-tier choice for protecting the skin from environmental damage.

What is Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil?

Grape Seed Oil is a lightweight oil extracted from the seeds of grapes. What makes it a skincare superstar is its unique and powerful composition:

  • Proanthocyanidins: This is Grape Seed Oil’s main claim to fame. It is an exceptionally rich source of these potent antioxidant compounds (also known as OPCs). Proanthocyanidins are considered to be more powerful antioxidants than both Vitamin C and Vitamin E.
  • Linoleic Acid: Like Safflower and Sunflower oil, it has a high concentration of this Omega-6 essential fatty acid, which is a critical component of the skin’s protective barrier.
  • Vitamin E: It also contains a good amount of this vital, fat-soluble antioxidant.

Source:

  • National Institutes of Health (PubMed Central): Grape Seed Oil: A Potential Functional Food and a Nutraceutical Adjuvant – This recent (2022) and comprehensive scientific review in Food Science & Nutrition details the potent chemical composition of Grape Seed Oil, including its high levels of proanthocyanidins, linoleic acid, and Vitamin E, and discusses its antioxidant properties.

The Good: 3 Key Benefits of Grape Seed Oil in Creams

When formulated into a cosmetic cream, Grape Seed Oil acts as a protective, balancing, and barrier-supporting emollient.

1. It Provides Superior Antioxidant Protection

The proanthocyanidins in Grape Seed Oil are masterful at neutralizing a wide range of free radicals. These damaging molecules, generated by UV rays and pollution, attack skin cells and break down collagen, leading to premature aging. By fighting this oxidative stress, Grape Seed Oil helps to:

  • Protect the skin from environmental damage.
  • Prevent the visible signs of aging, like fine lines and wrinkles.
  • Keep the skin looking healthy and youthful.

2. It’s an Excellent Lightweight Moisturizer for Oily & Acne-Prone Skin

Grape Seed Oil is a very thin, “dry” oil that absorbs into the skin quickly without leaving a greasy residue. It has a low comedogenic rating, meaning it is unlikely to clog pores. This, combined with its high linoleic acid content, makes it an ideal choice for moisturizing oily, combination, and acne-prone skin types.

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3. It Strengthens and Supports the Skin Barrier

The high concentration of linoleic acid makes Grape Seed Oil highly effective at reinforcing the skin’s natural barrier. A strong, healthy barrier is essential for locking in moisture and keeping out bacteria and irritants.

The Bad: Are There Any Considerations?

The effectiveness and safety of Grape Seed Oil are highly dependent on how it is produced.

  • Extraction Method is Everything: This is the most critical point. Because grape seeds contain a small amount of oil, extracting it can be difficult.
    • Cold-Pressed: This is the high-quality method, where the oil is extracted mechanically without high heat. It preserves the delicate antioxidants and nutrients. This is the only type that should be used in quality skincare.
    • Solvent-Extracted: This is a cheaper, high-yield method that uses chemical solvents (like hexane) to extract the oil. This process can destroy the beneficial compounds and potentially leave trace amounts of solvents in the final product.
  • It’s a Delicate Oil: Like other oils high in polyunsaturated fats, Grape Seed Oil is more susceptible to oxidation (going rancid) than more stable oils. It needs to be packaged in a dark, airtight container to protect its potency.
  • May Not Be Rich Enough for Very Dry Skin: While it’s a good barrier supporter, its lightweight nature may not feel nourishing enough for those with extremely dry or mature skin, who might prefer a richer emollient like Shea Butter.

The Verdict

Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil is a top-tier antioxidant oil that offers powerful protection from environmental stressors. Its lightweight, non-comedogenic texture makes it an exceptional choice for balancing and moisturizing normal, combination, oily, and acne-prone skin types. When you see it in our products, you can be confident it is the high-quality, cold-pressed variety, chosen for its ability to keep your skin protected, clear, and healthy.

Frequently Asked Questions about Grape Seed Oil

Is Grape Seed Oil good for oily or acne-prone skin?

Yes, it is considered one of the best oils for oily and acne-prone skin. It is lightweight, fast-absorbing, and non-comedogenic, meaning it will not clog pores. Its high linoleic acid content can also help to balance sebum.

What are proanthocyanidins in Grape Seed Oil?

Proanthocyanidins (also called OPCs) are the superstar antioxidant compounds in Grape Seed Oil. They are incredibly potent at neutralizing a wide range of free radicals, helping to protect the skin from the environmental damage that leads to premature aging.

Is Grape Seed Oil better than Vitamin C or E?

The proanthocyanidin antioxidants in Grape Seed Oil are scientifically considered to be more powerful free-radical scavengers than Vitamin C and Vitamin E on their own. However, these vitamins work best as a team, and Grape Seed Oil also naturally contains Vitamin E, making it a fantastic all-around protective ingredient.

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