Why do we use AHAs?
If you’re looking for ingredients that deliver a noticeable improvement in skin texture, dullness, and the signs of aging, look no further than Alpha-Hydroxy Acids, or AHAs. These powerful exfoliants are a gold standard in dermatology for their ability to reveal a smoother, more radiant complexion. As core actives in our ingredient philosophy, we use them to help you achieve a healthy, youthful glow.
What Are Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)?
AHAs are a group of water-soluble acids derived from natural sources like sugar cane, milk, and fruit. They work as chemical exfoliants on the surface of the skin. Unlike a physical scrub, AHAs gently dissolve the “glue” that holds dead skin cells together, allowing them to shed away evenly.
This process of exfoliation helps to address a wide range of skin concerns. While there are many types of AHAs, the two most common and effective in skincare are:
- Glycolic Acid: With the smallest molecular size, it penetrates the skin most effectively, making it excellent for targeting signs of aging.
- Lactic Acid: A larger molecule than glycolic acid, it is gentler on the skin and also acts as a humectant, meaning it helps attract moisture.
The Good: 3 Science-Backed Benefits of AHAs
When properly formulated in a cream or serum, AHAs are multi-functional ingredients that improve the skin’s appearance and health.
1. They Reveal Brighter, Smoother Skin
This is the most immediate benefit of AHAs. By sloughing away the outer layer of dull, dead skin cells, they reveal the newer, more radiant skin underneath. This process helps to improve rough texture, reduce the appearance of pores, and restore a healthy glow to a dull complexion.
2. They Reduce the Appearance of Fine Lines & Wrinkles
Beyond exfoliation, AHAs have been shown to stimulate the production of collagen in the deeper layers of the skin. Collagen is the essential protein that gives skin its firmness and structure, and is built from Amino Acids. Over time, this collagen-boosting effect can help to improve skin firmness and soften the look of fine lines and wrinkles.
3. They Boost Skin Hydration
While it may seem counterintuitive for an exfoliant, certain AHAs are also excellent hydrators. Lactic Acid, in particular, is a component of the skin’s Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) and acts as a humectant, helping the skin to attract and retain water.
The Bad: Are There Any Considerations?
The power of AHAs comes with a responsibility to use them correctly.
- Sun Sensitivity is a Must-Know: This is the most critical point. AHAs increase your skin’s sensitivity to the sun. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) requires products with AHAs to include sun safety warnings. It is essential to use a broad-spectrum sunscreen daily when using any AHA product to protect your skin.
- Potential for Irritation: Overusing AHAs or starting with too high a concentration can lead to over-exfoliation, which can appear as redness, dryness, stinging, and a compromised skin barrier.
- Start Low and Go Slow: If you are new to AHAs, it’s best to start with a lower concentration a few times a week and gradually increase the frequency as your skin adapts.
The Verdict
Alpha-Hydroxy Acids are scientifically-proven, top-tier ingredients for improving skin texture, fading signs of aging, and restoring radiance. When used correctly and paired with daily sun protection, they are one of the most effective tools for achieving and maintaining smooth, glowing, and healthy skin.
Primary Article Sources
- National Institutes of Health (PubMed Central): Alpha Hydroxy Acids – This comprehensive scientific review in Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology provides a deep dive into the mechanisms and benefits of AHAs, including their effects on exfoliation, skin thickness, and collagen.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA): Alpha Hydroxy Acids – The FDA’s official page on AHAs, detailing their function in cosmetics and the critical importance of sun safety.
Other sources used for this article:
Frequently Asked Questions about AHAs
Glycolic Acid has the smallest molecule size, allowing it to penetrate deeper for more potent anti-aging effects, but it can be more irritating. Lactic Acid has a larger molecule, making it gentler and better for sensitive skin. It also has the added benefit of being a humectant that helps hydrate the skin.
This depends on the product’s concentration and your skin’s tolerance. For beginners, it’s best to start 2-3 times per week. As your skin adapts, you may be able to increase to daily use, but always watch for signs of irritation like redness or peeling and reduce frequency if they occur.
Yes, but with caution. It’s often best to use them at different times of day to avoid potential irritation (e.g., use Vitamin C in the morning and AHAs at night). Always introduce new actives slowly and monitor your skin’s response.
Find AHAs in Our Products
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